Best of Tuscany Tasting Tour

This past weekend, the majority of my roommates flew off to Paris, leaving Niki and I to our own devices. We decided to take advantage of the last weekend before the stress of midterms hits and go wine tasting in Tuscany. So far I’ve mostly been staying in Florence this semester, so I was really excited to see some of the less touristic areas of Tuscany.

First thing Sunday morning, we got on a bus to Montepulciano—where we saw the setting of scenes from Twilight: New Moon and Under the Tuscan Sun. After walking through the town, we arrived at the wine cellars of Cantine Redi. After walking down into the wine cellars, the first thing we saw were rows of huge Slovenian oak barrels filled with aging wine.

Before tasting the wines, we got a history of the cellars, dictated in Italian by our host, and translated by our own tour guide, Francesco. Although Francesco was only supposed to be translating, he often offered his own opinions or corrections to the history lesson—much to the irritation of our host. It became more of a competition than an informative presentation, with Francesco constantly trying to one-up the host.

We began the tasting with the youngest wine, a 2011 Rosso di Montepulciano, which is an everyday wine. Next, we tasted the Rosso d’arnaldo, a version of the famous nobile wine, made with the original Renaissance process. The final wine was a 2008 Vino Nobile Reserve.

After briefly wondering around Montepulciano, we moved on to an organic cheese farm “in the middle of nowhere,” where we had a cheese tasting, after seeing the cheese-making process, followed by a very filling lunch of pastas and a tour of the farm. The farm is known for pecorino cheese, a very common type of cheese produced in Tuscany. After lunch, we saw how ricotta is made, and were able to have fresh ricotta with honey for dessert. I’m not a ricotta fan, but it was absolutely delicious—made with the traditional method, not machines.

Once the tasting was finished, we moved saw the farm animals and even got to hold baby sheep and goats! They were so adorable. Unfortunately, the sheep I held was NOT happy. In fact, I very narrowly escaped getting pooped on. Poor girl who help the sheep after me…

 

The baby goat they brought out was only one day old! I was completely shocked. First, by how large it was for only being a day old. Second, because they would bring out a newborn goat to be handled by strangers. Luckily, it was a friendly goat.

After filing back into the bus we drove to Pienza, the setting for scenes in Gladiator. Un until this point, our tour had been lucky with beautiful blue skies. But as soon as we got off the bus, it started raining. Slowly, at first. During the course of our short tour, it began to pour. The weather was so bad, our time was cut short and we headed back to the bus and on to our final destination: Cantina di Montalcino. (But not before I snuck off to get a cappuccino with Nicole.) 

 

The winery in Montalcino was a good deal larger than the first cellar in Montepulciano. It was run by Mario, this 80-year-old Italian man, who despite his age and married status, insisted on flirting with all the girls on the tour. While he was telling us about his winery, we could faintly hear Greenday’s “Minority” being played over and over by his grandson’s garage band.

The wine tasting began with a 2010 Rosso di Montalcino, a typical dinner wine. We then tasted a 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This particular vineyard is known for the Brunello wine. In fact, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Reserve was named internationally the best wine the year it was produced, and according to our tour guide, and if the owner was in a good mood we might get to taste it.

The next wine we sampled was the Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Piaggia, 2008. With dessert, we were given shots of Grappa di Brunello Reserve. As Mario told us, dinner at the vineyard used to be like a party, and he wanted to recreate that atmosphere. Finally, after wondering and waiting, Mario (a little on the short side) stood up on a bench to announce that he was bringing around his world-renowned 2004 Brunello Reserve! As with all reserve wines, we were instructed to let it breathe, but this time the importance was emphasized.

Truly, this was an amazing wine. We drank slowly, savoring every sip, until it was time to get back on the bus and return to Florence.

Florence Flea Market

 

After shopping (a lot) this past weekend in the main city center of Florence, I figured it might be time to look for some deals.

I decided to check out the local flea market, which happens every Tuesday morning by the river. I didn’t really know where it was exactly, but I had heard fragments about it from multiple sources and put together that it was on this side of the Arno. So after class Tuesday, I headed to the Arno and started walking. Not knowing how far it was, I just kept walking, hoping I’d run into the market eventually.

Everywhere I’ve gone so far in Florence is so close that this was the farthest I’ve walked to far.

It was very relaxing to just take my time walking and explore a bit. I saw the US consulate, surrounded by some intimidating-looking guards, new piazzas and monuments, and eventually started seeing CARS. A lot of them. In the city center, the streets are overrun with pedestrians and it’s an annoyance when a car actually tries to drive down the street. I haven’t been in a car since I took a taxi from the airport over a month ago. It’s so incredibly different from Long Beach, when I drive to school every day and make the average 20 minute commute to go to work. I absolutely love walking everywhere and am not missing LA traffic in the least.

After about 30 minutes, I finally made it to the market! It was so completely overwhelming. They had absolutely everything: shoes, scarves, purses, jewelry, clothes, kitchen supplies, fresh food, home decorations, etc. I couldn’t even make it through. It seemed endless.

There were piles of clothes for 1, 3, or 5 Euros. Although I originally went to the flea market with the intention of shopping for warm clothes, I didn’t buy anything because I was so entirely overwhelmed. Well, I did buy a sandwich. And then walked through a near-by park on the way back. I definitely want to go back soon, and next time I’ll be prepared for the madness.

How to Make Pasta

Tonight I got to see how pasta is made! We took a trip to this little shop in Florence that makes bread and pasta. The same company owns an organic farm just outside of Florence where they have a vineyard, an olive grove, pigs, cows, and chickens. Every morning, the baker makes fresh pasta for local restaurants. He only makes bread every other day, because he uses the traditional method so the bread lasts longer. Italian families didn’t use to have oven in every home, so they would make bread only once a week (usually on Sundays) and that would last the family until the next trip to the bakery.

In all his baking, he uses very basic ingredients, never even using salt. The lack of salt also goes back to an old Florentine tradition. The northern regions of Italy used to get salt from the south, however the Medici family (who essentially ruled Florence in the Renaissance) had bad relations with the region salt was bought from, so Italians began cooking without salt.

This likely explains the very plain bread served in most restaurants.

Despite the lack of salt, the bread was really good and we got to try it with his Laudemio olive oil. Laudemio is a certified brand (even higher quality than extra virgin) that his farm produces. In order to package it under the name Laudemio, the oil is thoroughly inspected every season.

Making pasta is quite a process. Two different types of flour are used: one traditionally used in Italy (which provides flavor), and flour more typical of northern Europe (this provides elasticity in the dough). The only other ingredients added are eggs and water. Then you mix it all together!

After the dough is mixed and kneaded, it’s stretched. This process has no exact measurements. The baker kept saying you could hear the pasta tell you it was ready.

When the pasta speaks to you, it’s time to shape it! 

For every step, there are complicated, antique machines in operation. Most pasta makers use more modern equipment, but San Michele a Torri is dedicated to tradition.

Wines from San Michele a Torri

After watching the pasta being made, we all got to take home a sample and try a glass of their signature house wine. The best way to get a good wine for a reasonable price in Italy is to bring empty bottles in to wine shops and refill it. That way you get wine directly from the maker (essentially cutting out the middleman) and you can avoid costs of the bottle, cork, and packaging. Also, you’re recycling! I seriously wish we had this in California. Needless to say, I think I know where I’ll be getting my chianti from now on! I even got a student discount.

Cookin' up the pasta for dinner!

 

Making Gelato!

Lookin' classy with our hairnets on

Tonight I got to make gelato! Well, in reality I just watched it being made, but in the process I got to have unlimited samples while waiting, a small cup of the gelato we watched being made, AND a big cup of any 3 flavors I chose. Pretty good deal if you ask me, especially because the event was free.

To start with, you take a mixture of milk, cream, sugar, and egg whites as a base. From there, you add different ingredients to make a specific flavor. My group made crema gelato, so we added egg yolks and more sugar (both powdered & normal). Francesco (the star chef) told us about some of his experimental flavors, including one we got to sample called ambrosia. It was a mix of Greek yogurt, honey, and cinnamon. Very good, and different from any gelato I’ve tried thus far. He also mentioned one with grapes, rosemary, and some other ingredient I forget. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to sample that creation.

As summer approaches and gelato becomes more popular, they make more flavors to put out, so I’ll definitely be back to try more!

 

The Diner

Today, I discovered a perfect replica of American culture in the heart of Florence. It was the perfect cure for homesickness and hangover. The Diner is set up like a classic retro diner, complete with fries, grilled cheese, omelets, GIANT cups of coffee, milkshakes, etc. Free water, sans bubbles, was provided upon entry—a luxury I have yet to experience anywhere else in Italy. I couldn’t even finish all my food, and ended up leaving with that over-stuffed feeling that really only comes from good ol’ American food.

The Diner seemed to be something of a novelty. Surprisingly, upon arrival, there were a number of Italian parties. As 11:30 rolled around, the place was absolutely filled with American study abroad students, looking for a familiar big home-style breakfast, complete with eggs and hash browns.

All the waiters spoke perfect English and I nearly forgot I was in Europe. Crazy! I even had butter for the first time since I left California. Next time, I will definitely be getting grilled cheese, fries, and an oreo shake.

Chocolate Festival! (oh, and classes have begun.)

I’ve been swept up in life in Florence for the past week, so it’s been a while since my last post. But I’m back now!

After the first day of classes, we had a welcome dinner in a palace! The dinner wasn’t much to write about, but the palace was beautifully decorated and a wonderful way to be welcomed to a semester in Florence.

Now, I’ve nearly finished my second week of school. So far, so good!

I’m taking Intro to Italian with from an Italian teacher. She’s fairly lenient and more focused on getting us practical Italian skills for getting around. So far, half the lesson is a normal intro-style class; half is focused on “Italian for survival.”

I’m also talking a class on the European Union with a German professor who speaks English with an accent I can’t really place. He almost sounds a bit Irish, but not quite. That’s beside the point though.

My Renaissance Culture and Civilization class is by far my favorite! It’s taught by this adorable old Florentine professor who seems to be extremely affected by caffeine and absolutely obsessed with Machiavelli.

Lastly, my Backgrounds of Western Lit class is uneventful. Taught by an American professor, so it’s essentially the same class structure I’d have back home.

 

Besides school, I’ve been enjoying exploring Florence. Even getting lost wondering around town is fun! Today, I went to pick up mail between classes and took a wrong turn on my way back and ended up at a chocolate festival. I think it may be the best mistake of my life! I suddenly found myself in a maze of delicious chocolate in every form a girl could wish for, even in shoe-form! Needless to say, I've stocked up on all the chocolate I'll need for a while.

Making Florence My New Home

All the pasta, pizza & gelato here is bound to add some extra curves.

The past few days have been spent exploring Florence and getting settled in. More of a reality check than anything else. We’ve had a laundry list of things to get for the apartment: kitchen supplies, cleaning supplies, food, and a few decorations for our place.

Yesterday, I headed out with a few of the roommates to IKEA, where we found nearly everything we needed to make our apartment feel like home. On the way over, we stopped for coffee and I got my first cappuccino here! I wish I knew how to make espresso, but at least there are countless cafes here to try.

Classes finally start tomorrow, so today is the last day to run errands, get school supplies, and find my classes. So far, when I try to figure out how to get somewhere here, I end up wandering in circles for hours until I finally stumble upon it, entirely by accident. However, by the time I find the place I was searching for, I’ve completely lost track of how I got there in the first place. Luckily, Florence is a lovely place to get lost. I live right near the historic city center (I can actually see the Duomo when I walk out of my apartment), so everywhere there are beautiful buildings, shops, cafes, and art.

The next thing I have to figure out is weekend travel. The list of places I want to go is infinite, but there are only 14 weeks in the semester (meaning 13 weekends, take away 2 for studying for midterms & finals, 2 are part of Spring Break, and 3 I’ll have to stay for Friday classes to make up for holidays we get off). This leaves only a few short weekends to travel!

I’ve already decided to try to stay within Italy for the most part, which limits my travel wish list to:

• ·      Venice (Carnival)
• ·      Rome
• ·      Tuscany (wine tasting)
• ·      Cinque Terre
• ·      Amalfi Coast
• ·      Pompeii & Capri
• ·      Sicily & Sardinia

…Let’s see how far I get with this.